Posts Tagged ‘salt’

I’ve Been Bad!

Filed Under: New York City, Restauranton May 19th, 2010

I have to apologize to everyone about not posting all week! Thank you for all continuing to follow, I PROMISE I will uphold my end of the bargain.

After endlessly saying, “We’re going to go, we’re going to go,” my friend and I finally ventured to The Breslin last Thursday evening. It only opened last fall, I mean, what took us so long? All the hype definitely deterred me, as did the mass amount of people waiting in The Ace Hotel on any given night waiting to try April Bloomfield’s new gastro-pub, but we finally got there!

We went in knowing two things would occur on our tongues for sure, pork fat and salt. Neither lacked presence in the meal.

Working close to the pub itself, I arrived at the bar, beer in hand, at about 5 o’clock. I don’t even know if it’s right to call The Breslin, a “pub.” Anthony Bourdain I know agrees with this; there is a big difference between a “pub” and a “gastro-pub.” Almost as if the word gastro-pub is an oxymoron. What happen to Irish hole-in-the-walls with bad food, cranky bartenders, and an endless supply of good (cheap) beer?

It doesn’t bother me so much as long as the food’s worth the hype and the beer doesn’t soar above $8 a pint.

It had been an overwhelming week and a drink was in order. The Breslin Aberdeen from Redhook, The Breslin’s signature beer is (in my opinion) less tasty that The Spotted Pig’s Bitter (which is also served at the bar). Served on the warmer side, with a more bitter without the flavor taste, the beer itself even tastes like it’s infused with pork fat.

I generally order almost everything on the menu when I go out to eat. When I’m splitting a meal with someone and trying a new spot, I mean why not, right? If I like it, I’ll go back and order the one thing that I loved, but if you’re anything like me, I can usually figure out how to recreate something similar and much less expensive at home after I’ve tasted the original.

Although, you can’t beat the atmosphere. Hey, it’s half the reason for dining out! Actually I’d say dining out is ALL about atmosphere, company, and let’s face it, booze. Normal people don’t polish off two bottles of wine at dinner at home (unless you’re my parents), but in a restaurant two bottles is just the start. People feel free in restaurants, free to be people they desire to be. I love it!

It’s like when in “When Harry met Sally” on the double date where the couple argues that “Restaurants are to the 90′s what theater was in the 80′s.” In 2010, restaurants are the theaters, dining rooms, and parties. No wonder everyone is a “foodie!?”

When I said that salt and pork fat were not subtle, I meant it. The salt overpowered our dishes. Granted we were eating on the earlier side and our meals were probably some of the first prepared by fresh chefs in the kitchen, but the salt was too heavy and unappreciated. The pork fat though was welcome and tasty.

I was reading an article in “Speciality Foods” that said that questions, “Is Bacon the Olive Oil of North America?” It’s an incredibly fascinating article, that despite our best efforts to curb obesity, is very true (and admirably) delicious. The Breslin uses the chance to prove this theory right, hitting a high note with it’s “thrice cooked chips.” Again, good, but salty.

Southerners will go CRAZY for the pork boiled peanuts which are served cold (as traditional in the South), and ramp lovers of the already-too-trendy spring ramp phase will love the mashed ramps, but the winner in my mind is the lamb burger.

Smaller than The Spotted Pig’s Burger with Roquefort, this less overwhelming burger packs the same juiciness with less … well … less beef. Or, “kick” I should say. But having “less” is actually more sometimes. You don’t feel like you need a crane to lift you from your bar stool to your taxi, it works. The use of feta (again with the salt!) and red onions allows for a fresher finish.

All in all, yes, atmosphere is cool, the people there (think they) are cool. And hell, I felt cool being there! Wait until the hype subsides, the chef reaches the bottom of the salt shaker, and go back and get yourself a little lamb.