Posts Tagged ‘chocolate’

What You Can’t Live Without …

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon February 8th, 2010

I’m sure there any many things that I couldn’t live without, but at the moment all I can think about is one thing that I definitely, most certainly, without question could live without. And that, is tempering chocolate.

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A teacher of mine from high school used to say something along the lines of, “If you begin to have dreams where you’re speaking a different language, you’re fluent.” Well, last week I was having dreams about tempering chocolate. And believe me, I am in no way speaking that language correctly.

As an evaluation in Level 3, each person in my class has to create a chocolate showpiece that weighed exactly 1000 grams. Made entirely of tempered chocolate.

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Technically speaking (and as I had to remember for my written test Friday), tempering chocolate is the re-crystalizing of beta-crystals in chocolate to produce a realignment. This is done by controlling the temperatures at which the chocolate is heated, cooled, reheated, and maintained. When chocolate is “tempered” it produces a hard, shiny, snap-able chocolate with a good “mouthfeel.” Each type of chocolate (dark, milk, white) has different temperatures.

Most major chocolatiers have tempering machines, as students we need to learn how to do this by hand. Thus, the story of my chocolate showpiece begins. Our theme was, “What you can’t live without …” And the mission was to “tell a story” using the vehicle of chocolate.

Um, splendid. Where do I begin? Well there’s two things I most definitely cannot live without (besides friends and family, but they’re hard to create) are the beach and ice cream. And usually they occur on a daily basis for me during the summer. So that was the idea behind mine, the execution was a little more shaky.

I remember touring the school last spring with my Dad and being shown the “chocolate showpieces” by our tour guide. As the guide continued along, my Dad and I looked at each other thinking, “These kids have been here for this long, and this is their “showpiece?” It looks like a kindergardener did it.” At that moment I knew my father was questioning where his money was going …

Well, let me tell you. Don’t speak before you try it. If those were kindergardener creations, move over Jacque Torres, there’s a child prodigy in the room.

So in creating a remake of what I can’t live without, I decided I’d tell a story by giving details of who I am as a person. A sweet tooth, check. A beach bum, check. A klutz, check check.

My showpiece was in short, a girl carrying an ice cream cone on a boardwalk, with the beach in the background, and her tripping, thus spilling her ice cream .

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Last week I was stressed beyond stressed because of this project. It involved a written test, two diagrams, sketches, cut-outs, life sized models, special tools, measurements, you name it. So when I began the project last week the only thing I kept thinking was, “It’s over on Monday at 1:30, it’s over on Monday at 1:30, it’s over on Monday at 1:30.”

And I’m proud to say, “it’s over (now that its 7 pm) on Monday.” Didn’t mean it went too hot, but despite how embarrassing it looks. Feel free to mock, I would. I finished, AND I was proven that karma has a funny sense of humor.

So in full irony, to top off the fabulous accomplishment of both being “done” and not doing as poorly as I thought, I broke the structure in moving it to storage.

Did I mention we weren’t getting graded until tomorrow?

So now, I have a broken chocolate stand.

Whatever, you live and learn. I always knew I wasn’t the most agile of creatures. Coincidence that my character’s ice cream AND my chocolate stand had the same fate? Maybe.

Plating

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon January 11th, 2010

I’m back in business! Doing something you like AND you’re good at makes the day go so much faster. Today the mixers were whirling, the ovens were convecting, and people were mise en place-ing all over the place. It was fabulous! No chocolate, no showpieces, no standing around.

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I have to give myself props, all those hours spent bent over dishes and trays of canapes paid off. Plated desserts are simple self portions desserts, plated for the individual. Today we made creme caramel, creme brulee, shortbread cookies, and a chocolate truffle cake (that is not baked but “baked” through the infusion of soft ball sugar, i.e. the sugar cooks the eggs, think Carbonara of dessert making).

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The plating of desserts in a restaurants are usually done by newly graduated pastry students (me!) and is a simple task that involved perfecting presentation. I mean, when you walk into a NYC restaurant they’re not gonna let you make the desserts on the first day, you gotta prove your worth, and this is generally HOW you do that.

The plate represents a clock, and instructions are given as to how to plate by using the clock analogy. So say the creme caramel goes in the center, the reduced and sugared kumquats go 2 PM, the rosette creme Chantilly (whipped creme) goes right below, and the mint spring comes out of this. For example.

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Today was custards, tomorrow will be crepes. I’ve never seen a crepe on a menu as a plated dessert, I always imagine them as “street food,” but then again, I’m still learning!

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Jello

Filed Under: French Culinary Institute, Lifeon December 29th, 2009

IMG_2926My parents’ nickname for me is “Jello.” I’m not sure how or why jello, and say, not “pudding” or “jelly” or even “idiot,” but I think I must resemble an old college friend of theirs that was a bit of a klutz. Actually I know I must resemble this unknown individual, because let’s face it I’m a bull in a china shop. I’m the most athletic klutz you’ll ever meet, an unusual combination on most days, but on others days …

Today was one of those days, you know what I mean? You cry at the drop of a hat, you don’t want to do anything, and nothing seems like it’s remotely interesting … females out there?? I know you girlfriends have those moods … I mean days.

Well on days when my doppelganger Jello appears WITH my moody bitchiness, disaster strikes. Did I mention I work with fire and knives? NOT a good combo.

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We’re currently in the chocolate section of our pastry course and when we graduate we become not only professionally trained “pastry chefs” but “chocolatiers.” Pretty cool since The French Culinary Institute is one of the only schools that does top-to-bottom chocolate training for each of its chefs.

Today we made a chocolate nut cake, with dried figs, apricots, pears, cherries, and walnuts. It’s a cream butter cake that gets its height from (a little baking powder) and aeration from creaming the butter and sugar.

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We decorated the cake (which was moist and dense, ah!) with chocolate leaves. Tempered chocolate that is used to cover lemon tree leaves, and peeled back to reveal the beautiful vein imprint.

My cake was great. BUT, I tend to get VERY cold naturally. If you know me, you KNOW how badly this happens to me. If I’m not draped in a blanket I’m hovering near a space heater, sticking my hands in whatever pockets are available, or … standing next to an industrial stove … lit …

Totally unsafe, totally illegal, and totally warm. Smelling that gas, blasting the burner, and warming the hell up. The kitchen is generally freeeeezing, to put it lightly. I’ve been known to wear long underwear (top and bottom) underneath my whites.

Everyone has come to recognize that if they cannot find me in the kitchen I’m two places, near the ovens, or next to the burner. Today was no exception. Except I burnt myself. Well I didn’t exactly burn myself, I burnt my hair … off my entire right forearm. All of a sudden Vanessa smells something and shock! things are curling on my arm. Horror!

Shock, followed by giggles, I’m fine. Jello one, Colleen zero.

IMG_2916I’ve also figured out my least favorite time of the year in New York: holiday time. There are NO New Yorkers, just tourists. Or, all the natives are aware of how incredibly annoying slow walking tourists are with large shopping bags and how freaking cold it is, that they choose to hibernate. I think I’m going to pick up this trait asap.

IMG_2925That being said, I was freezing, cake in hand and headed to lululemon to buy a new pair of workout pants. I left my cake. My beautifully covered, soaked, coated cake. The cake I was supposed to bring to my New Year Eve party … Whoops!

Jello two, Colleen zero.

Can’t win ‘em all. Enjoy the pictures and bundle up!