Archive for the ‘French Culinary Institute’ Category

Crepe Day

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon January 12th, 2010

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Do you like your pancakes thin in the morning? Do you prefer your desserts lighter and less dense? Or do you like the idea of being able to combine something sweet (i.e. a crepe) with something savory (maybe ham and cheese?) … well then, crepes are for YOU! And it’s super simple, here are some tricks I learned …

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1. Use butter. Lots of it, Julia Child style. No oil, no Pam, just buutahh.

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2. Flat pan, preferably not nonstick (according to the chef), but I think nonstick is okay, just don’t forget to use #1.

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3. Just like pancakes the first couple don’t come out right. The pan needs to be seasoned, the right temperature, and it might take you a crepe or two to get warmed up.

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4. Chocolate crepes don’t taste good. Correction they don’t really taste like anything. A better bet would be to take a regular crepe and just add chocolate or Nutella inside.

5. Classically a crepe should have no coloring and still taste “raw.” Americans prefer the color to be a little brown and crispier. I agree with the latter.

6. When plating them (not serving them from a cart, although that’s good too) reheat the crepe and DO NOT place the ice cream directly near the hot crepe, it’s poor presentation skill to have the ice cream melt before it gets to the customer.

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7. Recipe will be modified and posted soon!

Plating

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon January 11th, 2010

I’m back in business! Doing something you like AND you’re good at makes the day go so much faster. Today the mixers were whirling, the ovens were convecting, and people were mise en place-ing all over the place. It was fabulous! No chocolate, no showpieces, no standing around.

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I have to give myself props, all those hours spent bent over dishes and trays of canapes paid off. Plated desserts are simple self portions desserts, plated for the individual. Today we made creme caramel, creme brulee, shortbread cookies, and a chocolate truffle cake (that is not baked but “baked” through the infusion of soft ball sugar, i.e. the sugar cooks the eggs, think Carbonara of dessert making).

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The plating of desserts in a restaurants are usually done by newly graduated pastry students (me!) and is a simple task that involved perfecting presentation. I mean, when you walk into a NYC restaurant they’re not gonna let you make the desserts on the first day, you gotta prove your worth, and this is generally HOW you do that.

The plate represents a clock, and instructions are given as to how to plate by using the clock analogy. So say the creme caramel goes in the center, the reduced and sugared kumquats go 2 PM, the rosette creme Chantilly (whipped creme) goes right below, and the mint spring comes out of this. For example.

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Today was custards, tomorrow will be crepes. I’ve never seen a crepe on a menu as a plated dessert, I always imagine them as “street food,” but then again, I’m still learning!

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Showpieces

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon January 7th, 2010

Chocolate is the new cakes, i.e. the new thing I don’t like to do or talk about. I have a feeling sugar work is the new chocolate, but I’ll report back next week.

Just like my Irish ancestors, I’m a worker horse. There’s not much finesse in me (shock!) as there is power. I can’t help it! I’m not an artist, I’m a production worker. I’d rather crank out 25 pies, 25 loaves of bread, and a dozen different muffins in half a day than spend a week constructing a chocolate sculpture that no one gets to enjoy (except visually, but who wants that?) …

I’m a people pleaser! The main reason I love to cook and bake is to please the immediate audience. I like to see people smile when they bite into something I made, not stare at a chocolate statue and oooh and ahh. Screw that. Give me manual labor and throwing things in and out of the oven any day.

chocolateToday concluded our chocolate unit for level 2. Our written test is tomorrow (which I have not even begun to start thinking about), and our 2-day sculpture piece was due today. Mine didn’t turn out half as bad as I thought it would, so I can’t complain, but let’s just say I don’t think I can smell, taste or look at chocolate for a while.chocolate1

Chocolate Boxes

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon January 4th, 2010

IMG_2935Today in school we made chocolate boxes. Literally, boxes made out of chocolate. Edible boxes that we filled with chocolate truffles worth more than my little finger with the amount of Valrhona chocolate in them.

IMG_2932These aren’t your mainstream marketed truffles. No preservatives, no additives, simply clean ingredients. Chocolate, butter, cream, and liquor. Covered in tempered chocolate and cocoa powder. They were so good I wouldn’t let myself bring them home because I’d eat them all.

The box on the other hand was a little more difficult. The goal was to create a box more than 6″ long, 2″ high and 4″ inches wide, in any design we wanted as long as it included two different types of chocolate (white, milk, or dark).

IMG_2937The skill we were meant to master was tempering. Which means heating and cooling the chocolate (depending on type) to certain temperatures to create an ideal “snap and shine.” The problems I encountered were tempering the correct thickness, the tendency for the chocolate to break, and the streaky quality chocolate gets during “fat bloom.”

IMG_2934I’ve included a few pictures. The truffles are supposed to look organic and not perfect circles, as they would in an artisanal hand rolled shop. Godiva isn’t artisanal, sorry. But then again, my box doesn’t look ANYTHING but sloppy. Eh, it’s a learning experience.

Jello

Filed Under: French Culinary Institute, Lifeon December 29th, 2009

IMG_2926My parents’ nickname for me is “Jello.” I’m not sure how or why jello, and say, not “pudding” or “jelly” or even “idiot,” but I think I must resemble an old college friend of theirs that was a bit of a klutz. Actually I know I must resemble this unknown individual, because let’s face it I’m a bull in a china shop. I’m the most athletic klutz you’ll ever meet, an unusual combination on most days, but on others days …

Today was one of those days, you know what I mean? You cry at the drop of a hat, you don’t want to do anything, and nothing seems like it’s remotely interesting … females out there?? I know you girlfriends have those moods … I mean days.

Well on days when my doppelganger Jello appears WITH my moody bitchiness, disaster strikes. Did I mention I work with fire and knives? NOT a good combo.

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We’re currently in the chocolate section of our pastry course and when we graduate we become not only professionally trained “pastry chefs” but “chocolatiers.” Pretty cool since The French Culinary Institute is one of the only schools that does top-to-bottom chocolate training for each of its chefs.

Today we made a chocolate nut cake, with dried figs, apricots, pears, cherries, and walnuts. It’s a cream butter cake that gets its height from (a little baking powder) and aeration from creaming the butter and sugar.

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We decorated the cake (which was moist and dense, ah!) with chocolate leaves. Tempered chocolate that is used to cover lemon tree leaves, and peeled back to reveal the beautiful vein imprint.

My cake was great. BUT, I tend to get VERY cold naturally. If you know me, you KNOW how badly this happens to me. If I’m not draped in a blanket I’m hovering near a space heater, sticking my hands in whatever pockets are available, or … standing next to an industrial stove … lit …

Totally unsafe, totally illegal, and totally warm. Smelling that gas, blasting the burner, and warming the hell up. The kitchen is generally freeeeezing, to put it lightly. I’ve been known to wear long underwear (top and bottom) underneath my whites.

Everyone has come to recognize that if they cannot find me in the kitchen I’m two places, near the ovens, or next to the burner. Today was no exception. Except I burnt myself. Well I didn’t exactly burn myself, I burnt my hair … off my entire right forearm. All of a sudden Vanessa smells something and shock! things are curling on my arm. Horror!

Shock, followed by giggles, I’m fine. Jello one, Colleen zero.

IMG_2916I’ve also figured out my least favorite time of the year in New York: holiday time. There are NO New Yorkers, just tourists. Or, all the natives are aware of how incredibly annoying slow walking tourists are with large shopping bags and how freaking cold it is, that they choose to hibernate. I think I’m going to pick up this trait asap.

IMG_2925That being said, I was freezing, cake in hand and headed to lululemon to buy a new pair of workout pants. I left my cake. My beautifully covered, soaked, coated cake. The cake I was supposed to bring to my New Year Eve party … Whoops!

Jello two, Colleen zero.

Can’t win ‘em all. Enjoy the pictures and bundle up!

Today, I Faked It

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon December 23rd, 2009

IMG_2890There are many many things that a wonderful smile can get for you … one of them is partialness. Partialness to me.

I’d say my chef is partial to me, so even though I fudged up a few things on my cake, and my cake was NOT that great by any means, I did well. I faked it.

I’ll tell you what I screwed up, since I’m sharing the ugly:

IMG_28911. My fruit bavarian tasted good (sour/sweet mixture of peach and passion fruit puree), but was cooked wrong. Embarrassingly the gelatin didn’t fully melt. Gross. So I strained it, I did what Tim Gun tells me every week on Project Runway, I “made it work.” That being said without gelatin the mixture was soupy. My whipped cream was barely soft peaks, so that added to the lack of viscosity. Stuck that puppy in a pastry bag and freezered it, thank God for the freezer. But like I said it tasted good!

2. Next, I fudged  up my Italian meringue butter cream … twice … can’t really fake that one, I had to do it until I got it right. And I’m the QUEEN of buttercream, making it not eating it, and I never mess it up. Never say never.

3. My fondant was sticky beyond stick. Add that powder sugar and leave it up covered for longer than you would. Hardens up like a rock, success!

IMG_2893What I did do right is cover my cake. No cracks, no breaks, perfect according to the chef and I agree. Maybe a little thinner, but I just said the atmosphere this cake would be presented in was a warm spring day. The thicker layer of fondant helps protect the cake against the elements. Ha!

My decoration was simple, which is what I needed, because having screwed up essentially I learned months ago and had to redo, I didn’t have much time.

IMG_2895I’ve included a few classmates cakes, they’re much better, feel free to agree. But I stuck to  my plan, so I can’t complain …

Now go get yourself a holiday cocktail!

One More Day until Christmas!

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon December 22nd, 2009

I’ve noticed a trend in my blog writing so far, I tend to write about school when I like school. Correction, when I like what I’m doing in school. Like most people, (come on admit it), we tend to like what we’re good at. And since I wasn’t (as) good at making cakes to start, I didn’t like doing them. I’m a bit of a poor-sport when I’m not good at things, it doesn’t happen often.

Crushed my dream of being a famous wedding cake designer. Well one of my dreams, but a dream none the less. In fact, it helped me narrow my prospective job search down …

I hated cakes. Notice that I said “hated” not “hate” because I’m trying really hard to like it, and get good at making them. They’re the building blocks of parties, I HAVE to get good at them, and think I will in time. But in the interim of between horrible and fabulous, I’ve chosen not to write about it … until now.

Tomorrow on the Eve of my Christmas vacation our class has a cake exam. A written midterm of all we’ve learned so far, and the completion of a 6″ cake, with a randomly assigned crumb, filling, and topping. I got genoise, bavarian, and fondant.

Tonight we have to prepare a “plan” of what our cake will look like tomorrow. If the cake does not resemble our sketch at the point of completion points are deducted. I’m already nervous.

IMG_2888A genoise is a simple French cake. Its an egg foam cake, which means the cake is leavened by creating air within the egg protein structures. No baking powder, baking soda, or box. Its very easy to deflate, and more importantly very simple. Simple in taste … which is why the sponge is soaked in a simple syrup liquor. I’m choosing to soak mine in a lemoncello simple syrup.

The inside must be filled with bavarian. I’m not a big cream person, so I’m choosing to create a bavarian cream, a lemon one, in fact.

I’ll crumb coat the cake, which means to put a thin layer of buttercream on the cake before covering it either with a second layer of buttercream, marzipan, or fondant.

Next, I’ll cover the cake with white fondant (hand made not from the package) and decorate the cake with daisies.

The cake design is simple but since everything is from scratch and in four hours, I think creating a perfect cake is better than making an extravagant one that’s less good. Especially since this isn’t my forte.Remember I’m not good at being “bad” at things?

My sketch is above, I’ll show you the real thing tomorrow. Good, bad, or ugly, one thing is for sure, once it’s done, it’s Christmas!

Forget Petite Fours, Give Me the Caramel

Filed Under: French Culinary Institute, Recipeson December 16th, 2009

I trash on a lot of “trendy” things in the food world; celebrity chefs, cupcakes, overused/wrongly used sustainable buzz words, New York City tourist traps, etc. But as with all things, I tend to eat my words at some point, and this is one such case …

inaIf there is ONE “celebrity” chef I could be it would be Ina Garten. She’s the cat’s pajamas. Swap the adorable Jewish husband who eats everything she makes for a tall, dark, handsome Catholic that eats everything I make. The barnyard style house of the East End for a southern colonial in Charleston. And the soiree of gay men for my dearest best friends. Done!

But the thing about Ms. Garten is that she was a chef before she was a celebrity. Correction, she’s not a trained chef, like Chef Alain, but she’s a learned chef. A gourmet food store owner and more interesting (to me) a caterer.

I’ve said for a while now, that if I were going to work in a kitchen, it would be a catering kitchen. Start to finish, in my opinion, the process is more rewarding. So if you don’t see my name gracing the bylines of The New York Times Dining Section on Wednesdays in the future, I might be running a small boutique catering company somewhere.

Yesterday was my Pastry II class’s Petite Four test. My partner and I had four hours to produce 7 Petite Fours. Petite Fours are clean bite size pieces of dessert that are usually served as a small after dinner compliment or at a party … hmm perhaps served by a caterer?

petitefoursThree of the Petite Fours were my responsibility, three were my partner’s. One was combined. For one of my original three, I was inspired by Ina, specifically her Fleur De Sel Caramels. So instead of using the recipe the school provides, I used hers. And it was better, way better. In fact, during my evaluation, the chef said that this recipe was better than the school’s and should be used instead. WOW, huge compliment, go Ina … and ME!

Don’t get me started on Fleur, I think its one of the secrets between a good cook and someone who doesn’t know how to cook. Bold words, I’m aware. It’s essential to make a meal that much better. And it’s so simple, it’s just salt!

So here’s Ina’s recipe for Fleur De Sel Caramels. Try them, they’re perfect for a holiday snack while everyone is milling around the kitchen waiting for dinner. For the record, “milling” is not my word, it’s my mother’s, who uses it when my family is doing just that, milling around the kitchen waiting for dinner.

Fleur De Sel Caramels

  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup light corn syrup
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon Fleur, plus more for sprinkling
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Line the bottom of a half sheet tray with parchment and lightly spray the parchment with Pam or oil. This will prevent the caramel from sticking once it cools.

In a deep sauce pan (deeper than 4 inches) combine sugar, corn syrup, and water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Continue to boil until the ingredients are caramel color. The water will evaporate leaving a gradually browning effect on the sugar.

Warm the cream, butter, vanilla, and fleur so that butter is melted. When your sugar is at the right color pour the cream mixture over the sugar mixture. Be careful this is very hot. It will bubble high into the pan, its supposed to. Gradually stir the mixture and the bubbling will calm down.

Place a candy thermometer in the pot. Don’t freak out, its just a thermometer, you’re not going to burn yourself. Allow the mixture to come to 248 degree F, which is “hard ball” sugar, aka forms into a hard ball when cooled. In my opinion, the thermometers aren’t as accurate as one would like. You also have to account for the after-effect of the heat on the caramel after the pot is removed from the stove. I’d take the pot off the heat when the temperature reaches about 244 degrees F. To be safe, better to have softer caramel than caramel you could break a crown on.

Pour caramel onto parchment paper lined tray and allow to cool. When cool roll the caramel up (Fruit Roll Up style) and cut into one inch pieces. Sprinkle each piece with Fleur, and pop in your mouth. When it’s cool, not hot!

Happy Holidays!fleur

Words of Wisdom

Filed Under: French Culinary Instituteon December 15th, 2009

Last week I had the honor of being invited to the home of the founder of The French Culinary Institute, Dorothy Hamilton. About thirty students, ranging from young to old, culinary to bread were graced with the presence of some of the best chefs in the world. Better yet, these chef are our deans. Alain Sailhac and Andre Soltner to be specific.

During the toast, each chef spoke words of wisdom to the younger generation of chefs. It was unreal. These chefs are NOT the Rachael Rays or the Paula Deans of the world. Not that there’s anything wrong with those chefs, but Chef Alain and Chef Andre are classically trained French chefs. A rare breed. Their kitchens run like operating rooms with their attention to detail, cleanliness, and meticulousness in food and presentation. They’re TRUE professionals, and hopefully not a dying standard in our transitional culture.

Chef Andre spoke some of the most profound words I’ve ever heard about my future profession. Being a chef is NOT artistic. Chefs are not artists. They’re craftsmen. The men and women who make elaborate cakes aren’t artists? Nope. Avant garde food creators? Nope, sure not.

The reason why chefs are craftsmen is because everyday they have to be perfect. Every meal, the person at the table is going to want the best meal you can produce. They don’t care if it was perfect for last night’s diner. They want what they ordered to be the standard “good” that everyone else gets.

Do you think you can tell a bride on her wedding day, “Whoops, sorry the cake is lopsided, but yesterday’s wedding cake was really perfect, want to see a picture?” Gasp. If I were that bride I’d smack the chef.

An artist can produce a piece of art thats fabulous and the next day begin again and not be able to achieve the level he did the day before. And that’s okay! It’s acceptable for a painter to start over, grab a new canvas, or take a breather. A chef can walk out of the kitchen and say, “Nah, don’t feel like cooking lunch today.”

The highest award offered in culinary arts in France is an award of craftsmanship, not artistry. To make a life changing piece of art can be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for both the artist and general public. If a chef makes a meal, an outstanding meal, every night, that effects each individual who takes a bite. Its magical. Every. Single. Night. Isn’t that better than a one-hit-wonder anyway?

Can-Dee

Filed Under: French Culinary Institute, Recipeson December 8th, 2009

No one on this planet loves candy as much as my friend/future brother-in-law. He’s obsessed with anything sweet, sugary, and/or gummy.

Gummy worms, gummy bears, pixie sticks, pixie straws, etc. So many different varieties and specialities I can’t even handle it. Too much SUGAR for even me, and that says a lot. When we were younger, he used to create pockets in his lacrosse shorts so that during practice (and games) he could stash a bag or two of Sour Patch Kids. And yes, he was actually good at lacrosse, even while consuming all this junk.

If I’m the dessert girl, he’s the candy man. And he says, Can-Dee (hard “C”) … and as it turns out his nickname is “C.” He is the candy man of all candy, the blender boy of the Jersey Shore, and the lover of everything sugar. His diet consists of breakfast sandwiches, candy, and blender drinks. Did I mention he’s skinny? And nice? And cute? Could you ask for anything more? He doesn’t think so, and neither do I.

IMG_2871So this post is intended for all the sugar lovers of the world. It’s a recipe we created in class called, Pate de Fruits, which are basically fruit jellies covered in granulated sugar. Think really high-end gummy worms with REAL fruit puree.

Pate de Fruits

  • 1 teaspoon grams pectin
  • 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 2 cups fruit puree (This can be as simple as going to the frozen section of your grocery store and grabbing frozen fruit puree that you can thaw, this allows you to have more exotic flavors such as mango, passion fruit, or cassis. During the summer months you can be more complex and reduce fresh berries or peaches.)
  • 1-2 cups granulated sugar (depending on how sweet the fruit is, peaches are sweeter than passion fruits or lemon, use your judgement)
  • 5 tablespoons corn syrup
  • the recipe also calls for about 3 tablespoons of trimoline and 1 teaspoon citric acid which are more inverted sugars used for preservation, but the mix will be fine without them if you cannot find

IMG_2869Mix the pectin and smaller amount of sugar together. Add the fruit puree to a high rimmed saute pan and allow to boil. Add pectin/sugar mixture. Bring the mixture to a roaring boil. Add remaining ingredients. Be careful but unafraid, use a candy thermometer and allow the mixture to reach 230 degree F. This is known as the “soft ball sugar stage.” Pour the mixture into a well oiled bottomless cake rim placed on a silpat. Allow to cool. Unmold, cut, and cover pieces in granulated sugar.

These are usually served at petite fours … or in the pockets of sugar lovers everywhere …